Water-resistant mascara composition having a high water content

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to a water-resistant mascara composition that has a high water content. The inventive mascara composition contains an oil phase comprising a liquid ester, an oil, or a mixture thereof, 1 to 50 percent by weight of a silicon-based film-forming agent, 1 to 10 percent by weight of a gel-forming agent selected among fatty acid esters, glycol derivatives, or mixtures thereof, 1 to 50 percent by weight of substances selected among pigments, powders, fillers, and mixtures thereof, an aqueous phase comprising 42 to 75 percent by weight of water, 0.1 to 10 percent by weight of a surfactant, and other carrier substances, auxiliary agents, active substances, or mixtures thereof until reaching 100 percent by weight. Said composition contains no wax and no hydrocarbon solvent.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention

The invention refers to a water-proof mascara composition which at thesame time has a high water content.

2. Related Art of the Invention

Water-proof mascara compositions are already known. In many cases, suchcompositions contain cosmetic waxes. From U.S. Pat. No. 5,925,337 awaterproof mascara composition is known which contains 2-40% by weightof a wax, 5-15% by weight of a thickening agent, 35-50% by weight of avolatile organic solvent and 1-35% by weight of a water-solublefilm-forming agent, wherein the last-named agent may e.g. also be anacrylate polymer. The composition does not contain any emulsifier. Thewater content of the aforesaid formulation is in the range of 7 to 12%by weight.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The object of the invention is to provide a mascara composition whichhas a very high water content, high gloss and at the same time is highlywater-proof.

Another object is to develop a mascara which adheres well, but caneasily be removed from the surface of the eyelashes with water.

Another object is to integrate substances such as talc, mica etc. intothe mascara composition with no phase separation occurring.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

According to the invention, the aforesaid objects are achieved by meansof a mascara composition which comprises

-   a) an oil phase comprising a liquid ester, an oil or a mixture    thereof, 1 to 50% by weight of a film-forming agent on a silicone    base, 0.1 to 10% by weight of a gel-forming agent selected from    among fatty acid esters, glycol derivatives and mixtures thereof;-   b) 1 to 50% by weight of substances selected from among pigments,    powders, fillers and mixtures thereof;-   c) a water phase comprising 42 to 75% by weight of water;-   d) 0.1 to 10% by weight of a surface-active agent; and-   e) ad 100% by weight further carrier substances, auxiliaries, active    agents or mixtures thereof, all percentages being relative to the    total weight of the composition, and wherein the composition is free    of waxes and hydrocarbon solvents.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Since any wax added requires melting temperatures of up to 80° C. orabove, it is advantageous to avoid the high melting temperatures bothfrom an energetic point of view and with regard to the presence oftemperature-sensitive ingredients, such as antioxidants, UV filters,etc., in the formulation.

The ester used for the oil phase can e.g. be Neopentyl GlycolDioctanoate, Isopropyl Myristate, Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate,Trimethylpropane Triisostearate, Triisostearyl Citrate, CetearylOctanoate, Distearyl Maleate, etc., in particular Diisostearyl Maleate.

Particularly suitable oils are e.g. silicone oils, mineral oils,Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyisopren, Squalane, PPG-15 Stearyl Etheras well as vegetable oils. Silicone oils, such as e.g. Cyclomethicone,or mixtures of several siloxanes, such as Dimethicone, are preferred.Preferred ranges are 0.1 to 30% by weight.

A preferred silicone-based film-forming agent is TrimethylSiloxysilicate or Amodimethicone or a mixture thereof.

The film-forming agent is preferably contained in the range of 20 to 30%by weight.

Normally, high contents of such film-forming agents reduce the viscosityof typical mascara compositions. In the composition according to theinvention, the aforesaid decrease in viscosity does not occur, probablydue to the presence of the special gel-forming agent.

If a fatty acid ester is used as gel-forming agent, it is preferablycontained in the range of 0.1 to 5% by weight. A suitable fatty acidester is e.g. Stearyl Behenate, preferably with a share of 0.8-4.0% byweight.

Examples of glycol derivatives are glycerol behenate, glycerol stearate,glycerol palmitate, glycerol arachidate. A preferred glycol derivate isGlycerol Behenate. The share of these glycol derivatives is preferablyin the range of 1-4.5% by weight.

A special preferred gel-former is a mixture of glycol derivatives andfatty acid esters, such as a mixture of Glyceryl Behenate and StearylBehenate, preferably in a relation of 1:2 to 1:4.

The water phase, which can also contain auxiliaries and further activeagents besides water, preferably comprises 50 to 75% by weight of water,more preferably 55 to 75% by weight and especially 57 to 68% by weightof water.

According to the invention, it is preferred that the surface-activeagents be non-ionic surface-active agents, which can be added in therange of 0.5 to 7% by weight. They include coconut acyl mono ordiethanol amides, alkyl polysaccharides, lactobionamides, ethyleneglycolesters, glycerol monoethers, polyhydroxyamides (glucamides), primary andsecondary alcohol ethoxylates, especially the C₈₋₂₀ aliphatic alcoholsethoxylated with an average of from 1 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide permole of alcohol. Mixtures of any of the foregoing surface active agentsmay also be used. A preferred is Dimethicone Copolyol (CetylPEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone).

Suitable pigments, pigment mixtures or powders with a pigment-likeeffect, also including those with a pearl-gloss effect, may include inthe present invention, for example, iron oxides, aluminum silicates suchas ochre, titanium (di)oxide, mica, kaolin, manganese containing clayssuch as umber and red bole, calcium carbonate, French chalk,mica-titanium oxide, mica-titanium oxide-iron oxide, bismuthoxychloride, nylon beads, ceramic beads, expanded and non-expandedsynthetic polymer powders, powdery natural organic compounds such asmilled solid algae, milled plant parts, encapsulated andnon-encapsulated cereal starches and mica-titanium oxide-organic dye.

They can be contained in the composition in the range of 0.1 to 50% byweight, preferably 7 to 15% by weight.

Pigments the surface of which has been treated can also be contained,e.g. such ones whose surface has been treated with alkyl silanes orperfluoroalcohol phosphates.

Additional cosmetic active agents which can be used in the presentinvention include e.g. inorganic and organic sunscreens, scavengers,moisturizing substances, vitamins, enzymes, vegetable active agents,polymers, melanin, antioxidants, antiinflammatory natural active agents,disintegration products of yeast or plant substances prepared by gentleultrasonic treatment according to WO94/137983, kaolin as well as kaolinmodified with SiO₂ according to WO94/17588.

The composition according to the invention can also advantageouslycontain antioxidants. Antioxidants include vitamins such as vitamin Cand derivatives thereof, for example, ascorbic acetate, phosphate, andpalmitate; vitamin A and derivatives thereof; folic acid and derivativesthereof; vitamin E and derivatives thereof, such as tocopheryl acetate;flavones or flavonoids; amino acids, such as histidine, glycine,tyrosine, tryptophan, and derivatives thereof; carotenoids and carotenessuch as, for example, α-carotene, β-carotene; uric acid and derivativesthereof; α-hydroxy acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid;stilbene and derivatives thereof etc.

It is moreover advantageous to add to the compositions according to theinvention corresponding water and/or oil soluble UVA or UVB filters orboth. Advantageous oil-soluble UVB filters include 4-amino benzoic acidderivatives such as 4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid-(2-ethylhexyl) ester;esters of cinnamic acid such as 4-methoxy cinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl)ester; benzophenone derivatives such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives such as 3-benzylidenecamphor.

Preferred oil-soluble UV filters are Benzophenone-3, ButylMethoxybenzoylmethane, Octyl Methoxycinnamate, Octyl Salicylate,4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor, Homosalate and Octyl Dimethyl PABA.

Water-soluble UVB filters are, for example, sulfonic acid derivatives ofbenzophenone or of 3-benzylidene camphor or salts, such as Na or Ksalts, of 2-phenyl benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid.

UVA filters include dibenzoyl methane derivatives such as1-phenyl-4-(4′-isopropanol phenyl) propane-1,3-dione.

Further, thickeners for the water phase can be contained as auxiliaries,such as e.g. cellulose derivatives, hydrocolloids or salts ofpolyacrylates, such as e.g. Na-Polyacrylate.

Further auxiliaries can be solid esters, e.g. such ones having 18 ormore carbon atoms in the alkyl part. For example these include StearylBehenate (octadecyl ester of docosanic acid) and others.

Preferred moisturizing substances are Glycerine, Butylene Glycol,Propylene Glycol or mixtures thereof which are contained in the range of0.1 to 20% by weight.

The addition of electrolytes causes the solubility behaviour of anhydrophilic emulsifier to change. Hydrophilic emulsifiers are subject toa partial phase inversion during which the oil phase solubilizes water.The result is a stable emulsion, in particular a micro-emulsion or anO/W/O-emulsion. Suitable electrolytes are salts containing the followinganions: chlorides, inorganic oxo-element anions, such as borates,aluminates, sulphates, phosphates, carbonates. Electrolytes based onorganic anions include citrates, tartrates, lactates, propionates,acetates and benzoates as well as EDTA and salts thereof.

Cations of the salts can be alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metalions, ammonium ions, alkyl ammonium ions, iron ions, zinc ions.

Electrolytes can be contained in the range of 0.01 to 5% by weight,preferably 0.1 to 2.5% by weight.

It has been found that the usual water contents of water proofedmascaras, which normally are below 20% by weight, can be considerablyincreased, namely up to a water content of 75% by weight. Furtherpreferred ranges are 45-75%, especially 45-70 and special preferred50-75% or 55-70% by weight.

In addition, the mascara according to the invention is water-proof, butcan be washed off completely with warm water at a temperature ofapproximately 29° C. and above.

It is further surprising that such problematic substances as talc, micaand synthetic pearls, which have hydrophobic properties and tend toseparate the water phase, can be made to form part of a stablecream-like emulsion due to the presence of thickeners, gums andemulsifiers, such as e.g. a cationic silicone polymer in the range of0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight. Also formulationswithout any cationic silicone polymers are possible.

It has further been found that the mascara composition according to theinvention has a high degree of brilliance (shine) despite the fact thathigher amounts of silicones were used for the oil phase and thefilm-forming agent (e.g. Cyclomethicone/TMS) and normally suchcompositions containing silicone appear rather dull. The foregoing isanother important advantage compared to known water-proof mascaracompositions.

Since the mascara of the present invention is free of hydrocarbonsolvents there is no special packaging required. A conventional waterbased mascaras package can be used for the water based waterproofmascara. This is very cost effective. No expenses are incurred in makingnew and higher density package that will accommodate hydrocarbonsolvent-based mascaras or the tooling needed to make said package.

Further the mascara of the present invention shows after a clinicaltesting report waterproofness at least at the same level than productsof the market and further it shows no streaking, smudging, flakingand/or fading as a statistical significant increase after 3 immersionsat a baseline visit and a 6 hour visit (study with 28 female panellistswith usual inclusion and exclusion criteria).

In the following, the invention shall be described in detail byexamples. All percent figures are by weight if not other set out.

Example 1 Mascara I

Phase A Purester 40 3.5 Distearyl Maleate 0.5 Glyceryl Behenate 1.0(1:1) Cyclomethicone/Trimethyl Siloxysilcate (TMS) 22 DimethiconeCopolyol 1.1 Preservative 0.8 Propylene Glycol 1.5 Glycerine 0.6 Phase BIron oxide, black 7.8 Phase C Water 57 Sodium chloride 0.2 Phase DDimethicone 4

Phase A is mixed at 200-1000 rpm and heated to about 75° C. untilhomogenous. Introducing Glycerine and PPG to Cyclomethicone/TMS will gelinto a stable creamy paste. Phase B is incorporated at the sameconditions as phase A. Phase C is mixed at 100-400 rpm, heated to about70° C. and incorporated to the mixture of A and B maintaining thetemperature and with 800-2000 rpm. The mixture is cooled down whilemixing to 45-50° C. After that phase D is added and the batch was cooledto 25-30° C.

Example 2-4 Mascara II, III and IV

II III IV DISM Diisostearyl Maleate 0.5 1 0.5 (1:1) Cyclomethicone/TMS22 21 20 Dimethicone Copolyol 1.4 2 2 Preservative 0.5 0.5 0.5 Ironoxide, black 6.8 6.8 6.8 Water q.s. ad 100 Purester 40* 3 3.3 3 GlycerylBehenate 1 2 1.2 Mica 8 As 1 1 1 Amodimethicone 1 0.8 0.8 Merguard 11050.3 0.1 0.1 Sodium Chloride 0.4 0.6 0.6 Butylene Glycol 1.5 2.5 2.5Glycerine 0.6 1 1 Cyclomethicone — — 2*Stearyl Behenate & Methyl Behenate & Stearyl AlcoholThe preparation of the mascara was like example 1.

Example 5 Comparison Test Gloss

Gloss measurements were made using a Glossgard System 60 instrument(Gardner Instruments) at an 85 degree angle. This glossmeter is good formeasuring semi-glossy surfaces such as mascara, lip and nail products.It has a statistical software built into the unit for mean calculationof repeated readings.

The measurements were made on a 6 mil (about 150 μm) thick drawdownwhich was allowed to air dry for 24 hrs. The substrate was a Leneta form5c-opacity drawdown card.

Comparison measurements were made between two waterproof mascaras of themarket (A, B) and one non-waterproof gloss mascara (C) and thewaterproof mascara of the present invention (D). Results at 85 degreeangle: A 2.7 C 27.8 B 0.6 D 79.6The measurements show the superiority of the product of the presentinvention also in the gloss attribute.

1. A water-proof mascara composition which comprises a) an oil phasecomprising a liquid ester, an oil or a mixture thereof, 1 to 50% byweight of a film-forming agent on a silicone base, 0.1 to 10% by weightof a gel-forming agent selected from among fatty acids, fatty acidesters, glycol derivatives and mixtures thereof; b) 1 to 50% by weightof substances selected from among pigments, powders, fillers andmixtures thereof; c) a water phase comprising 42 to 75% by weight ofwater; d) 0.1 to 10% by weight of a surface-active agent; and e) ad 100%by weight further carrier substances, auxiliaries, active agents ormixtures thereof, all percentages being relative to the total weight ofthe composition, wherein the composition is free of waxes andhydrocarbon solvents.
 2. The composition according to claim 1, whereinthe oil of the oil phase is a silicone oil.
 3. The composition accordingto claim 1, wherein the ester of the oil phase is Diisostearyl Maleate.4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the compositioncomprises as a gelling agent a glycol derivative selected from the groupconsisting of glyceryl behenate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate,glyceryl arachidate and mixtures thereof.
 5. The composition accordingto claim 1, wherein the gelling agent is in the range of 0.1-5% byweight, preferably 1.0-4.5% by weight.
 6. The composition according toclaim 1, wherein the composition comprises as a film forming agentTrimethyl Siloxysilicate.
 7. The composition according to claim 1,wherein the water phase comprises 50 to 75% by weight water.
 8. Thecomposition according to claim 7, wherein the water phase comprises 56to 75% by weight water.
 9. The composition according to claim 1, whereinthe surfactant is a nonionic surfactant.
 10. The composition accordingto claim 1 wherein the said composition contains moisturizing substancesselected from among Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Glycerine andmixtures thereof.
 11. A mascara composition according to claim 1comprising an oil phase which comprises a liquid ester, 15 to 30% byweight of a film-forming agent on a silicone base, and 0.1 to 10% byweight of a fatty acid gel-forming agent on the basis of a or fatty acidester, a glycol derivative or a mixture thereof; 1 to 15% by weight ofpigments selected from among iron oxides, mica, talc, kaolin, manganesecontaining clays, nylon pearls, coated pigments and mixtures thereof; awater phase comprising 45 to 70% by weight of water; 0.5 to 7% by weightof a non-ionic surface-active agent; 0.8 to 2% by weight of a cationicsilicone polymer; and optionally, ad 100% by weight further carriersubstances, auxiliaries, active agents or mixtures thereof, wherein thecomposition is free of waxes and hydrocarbon solvents.